7.03.2017

How to Carry Yarn Up the Side of a Crochet Project

Hi friends! Lately I've been working on a new design project. It will be on the blog soon. In the meantime, I want to share tutorial about one of the skills involved. This is a striped crochet project, which means color changes.

How to carry yarn up the side of your crochet project when working with multiple colors. By April Garwood of Banana Moon Studio.

This post contains affiliate links. It helps my bottom line when you click on one and load up your cart, so thanks in advance!


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Pros and Cons:

When you are changing colors, you can cut your yarn at the end of each section, and leave a tail hanging off. This simplifies things a little as you go, since you don't have to carry the unused yarn. Of course, that will mean weaving in all those ends later. It also means that your crochet project will use up more yarn.

In this project, the edges of each piece will be inside the finished project, as well as being inside a seam allowance, so the edges won't show. This means that I can carry the unused yarn up the side of my crochet project, and those bits of yarn that are carried won't show when it is finished. This means that I don't have to cut my yarn when I finish a section, and I won't have nearly so many ends to weave in at the end! Brilliant!

Supplies:
For this project I am using my Susan Bates I/9 crochet hook and Zombie Yarns Monster, a dk weight superwash wool. Click below to get this hook with my affiliate link:


Here's how to carry yarn up the side of your crochet project:

How to carry yarn up the side of your crochet project when working with multiple colors. By April Garwood of Banana Moon Studio.

 ^ You begin carrying when it is time to work the last stitch in the row above your color change. First insert your crochet hook into the last stitch of the row you are working on.

How to carry yarn up the side of your crochet project when working with multiple colors. By April Garwood of Banana Moon Studio.

^ Yarn over (this just means to wrap your yarn around your crochet hook), pull that yarn through the stitch.

How to carry yarn up the side of your crochet project when working with multiple colors. By April Garwood of Banana Moon Studio.

^ Now is where the magic happens! Take your unused yarn and pass it between your working yarn and your crochet hook, then let it fall to the back of your working yarn.

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How to carry yarn up the side of your crochet project when working with multiple colors. By April Garwood of Banana Moon Studio.

^ Keep the unused yarn out of the way while you pick your working yarn back up and wrap it around your crochet hook as usual to complete the stitch. Your unused yarn should now be trapped.

How to carry yarn up the side of your crochet project when working with multiple colors. By April Garwood of Banana Moon Studio.

^ Complete the stitch as usual, and your unused yarn will be secured inside of that stitch. Just be sure you are doing this with the last stitch along the side so that these carries stay right on the edge. You can then pass it around your working yarn again just before you make the first turning chain for your next row. Keep working up the side like this, passing your unused yarn around your working yarn every time you work a stitch or turning chain along that side.

How to carry yarn up the side of your crochet project when working with multiple colors. By April Garwood of Banana Moon Studio.

^ Here's how the side of my crochet project looks from carrying the unused yarn up the side. That's how you do it!

What is the last striped project you made? What tips do you have for managing multiple colors in a project? I'd love to hear them!

Looking for a colorful crochet project to make? Try one of these!

Tiffany Blanket - a colorful baby blanket to adore - free pattern on my blog!

Pond Creek Pillow - a throw pillow that begins with a mandala - free pattern on my blog!

Tulip Gauntlets - unique and bold fingerless gloves - $5.50 from Interweave

Primary Sweater Dress - a sweet sweater dress in wide stripes - $5 on Ravelry

Berry Scarf - a striped infinity scarf in wattle stitch - free pattern on my blog!

Want to hang out some more? Me too! SIGN UP for my newsletter or VISIT me on Facebook! Or, find me on INSTAGRAM or PINTEREST. See you soon!

Happy stitching!
April

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6.22.2017

Tiffany Blanket


FREE crochet baby blanket pattern by April Garwood of Banana Moon Studio. Colorful, worked mostly in moss or seed stitch.


I'm so excited to share this new pattern with you today! This is the Tiffany Blanket, a crochet baby blanket pattern. I'm so in love with all the color in this pattern! I designed this in six colors of Valley Yarns Valley Superwash dk! If you want to change up the colors, I suggest that you choose five colors that are all about the same "weight". This means that they are all about the same on a scale of light to dark. If you were to take a black and white picture of those colors together, they would all look like the same grey. Then, for the sixth color, choose one that is a lighter or darker shade of one of the other five colors.

This post contains affiliate links and ads. It helps my bottom line when you click on one and load up your cart, so thanks in advance!


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FREE crochet pattern for a colorful seed stitch baby blanket by April Garwood of Banana Moon Studio
Just look at the close-up of that edging! <3

You can find this pattern on Ravelry. If you'd like to hang out more, please SUBSCRIBE to my newsletter, or VISIT me on Facebook!

FREE crochet pattern for a baby blanket made in seed or moss stitch by April Garwood of Banana Moon Studio

Designed by April Garwood

Difficulty Level
Intermediate

Finished Dimensions
26 ½” x 26 ½”

Yarn
Valley Yarns Valley Superwash dk (100% Extra Fine Superwash Merino Wool; 50 g/1.75 yds/137 yds/125.5 m; CYCA weight category: 3/light): 3 balls #19 Misty Lilac, 3 balls #15 Blue Mist, 1 ball #14 Teal, 1 ball #08 Copper, 1 ball #07 Red, and 1 ball #02 Steel Gray.

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Hook
I/9 – 5.5 mm, or size needed to obtain gauge.

Notions

Gauge
10 patt reps x 19 rows = about 4” or (10 cm) in seed stitch.

Notes
This crochet baby blanket begins with a center section that is worked back and forth in rows. The rest of the blanket is a very wide edging, worked in rounds.

Seed Stitch Pattern
Number of patt reps x 2 chs + 2 more.
Row 1(RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook, *ch 1, sk next ch, sc in next ch, repeat from * to end, turn.
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in first st, sc in next ch *ch 1, sk next st, sc in next ch sp, repeat from * to last st, sc in last st, turn.
Row 3: Ch 1, sc in first st, *ch 1, sk next st, sc in next ch sp, repeat from * to last 2 sts, ch 1, sk next st, sc in last st, turn.
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 for pattern.

Special Stitches
Cluster: Yo, insert hook in designated place, [yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops] 2 times, yo, pull through all 3 loops.
Sc join: Begin with sl knot on hook as usual, insert hook in designated spot, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through both loops. Counts as sc.
Dc join: Begin with sl knot on hook as usual, yo, holding the loop in place with finger, insert hook in designated spot, still holding loops in place on hook, yo, pull up a loop, [yo, pull through 2 loops] 2 times. Counts as dc.

Unusual Abbreviations:
BLO      Back loop only (see my tutorial post about this)
Pm         place marker

Center Panel
With Misty Lilac, ch 58
Work in Seed Stitch Pattern (see above) for 56 rows. Fasten off.

Edging
Note: Work Rnds 1-7 with RS always facing. Do not turn between rnds.

Rnd 1: With RS facing, join Blue Mist to top, right corner with *3 sc in first st [corner made], sc in each rem st and ch sp along edge, 3 sc total in last st, turn to work down next edge, 49 sc evenly down side edge, turn to work across next edge, repeat from *, join to first st with sl st – 208 sts.
Rnd 2: Ch 1, *sc in first corner st, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next st, sc in next st, [ch 1, sk next st, sc in next st] across to st before next corner, ch 1, sk next st, repeat from * around, join to first st with sl st – 112 sts.
Rnd 3: Sl st in next st, sl st in corner ch sp, ch 2 [does not count as a st], *(cluster [see Special Stitches], ch 3, cluster) in corner ch sp, [ch 1, sk next st, cluster in next ch sp] to corner ch sp, ch 1, sk next st, repeat from * around, join to first cluster with sl st – 108 clusters. Fasten off.

Rnd 4: With Teal join to first corner ch sp with *(sc, ch 4, sc) in corner ch sp, [ch 3, sk next cluster, sc in next ch sp] across to next corner, ch 3, skip first corner cluster, repeat from * around, join to first st with sl st – 116 sts. Fasten off.

Rnd 5: With Copper join to first corner ch sp with *5 sc in corner ch sp (corner made), [sk next st, 2 sc in next ch sp] across to next corner, repeat from * around, join to first st with sl st – 388 sts. Fasten off.

Rnd 6: With Red join with *sc in BLO (see Unusual Abbreviations) of 3rd st of corner, tr in corner ch sp of Edging Rnd 3 between two sts from Rnd 4, sc in BLO again in 3rd st of corner from Rnd 5, sc in BLO of next 28 sts, 2 tr in top of 14th cluster from Rnd 3, sk next 2 sts from Rnd 5, sc in BLO of each st to next corner, sc in BLO of first 2 corner sts, repeat from * around, joining to first st with sl st – 244 sts. Fasten off.

Rnd 7: With Steel Gray, join with dc (see Special Stitches) in first corner tr st, still working in same st (ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) in corner tr st, *ch 1, [dc in next st, ch 1, sk next st] across to next corner tr st**, (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) in corner tr st (corner made), repeat from * around, ending last rep at **, join to first st with sl st – 132 sts. Fasten off.


Note: Begin Rnd 8 with RS facing, for Rnds 8-17, turn at the end of each rnd. Place markers as explained in Rnd 8. Move markers up as work progresses.

Rnd 8: With Misty Lilac, join with sc in 2nd dc of corner (pm in this st), *ch 1, sc in next ch sp, [ch 1, sk next st, sc in next ch sp] across to 2nd dc of next corner, ch 1**, sc in next st (pm in this st), repeat from * around, ending last rep at **, join to first st with sl st, turn – 136 sts.
Rnds 9-17: Ch 1, sc in first marked st, *ch 1, sc in next ch sp, [ch 1, sk next st, sc in next ch sp] across to next marked st, ch 1**, sc in next st, repeat from * around, ending last rep at **, join to first st with sl st, turn – 208 sts. Fasten off.

Note: For all remaining rnds work with RS always facing. Do not turn between remaining rnds.

Rnd 18: Join Blue Mist with sc in first marked st, 2 additional sc in same st (corner made, remove m), *sc in every st and ch sp across to next marked st**, 3 sc in marked st (corner made, remove m), repeat from * around, ending last rep at **, join to first st with sl st – 424 sts.
Rnd 19: (Sl st, ch 1, sc, ch 1, sc) in 2nd corner st, *[ch 1, sk next st, sc in next st] across to next corner, ch 1, sk first corner st**, (sc, ch 1, sc) in 2nd corner st, repeat from * around, ending last rep at **, join to first st with sl st – 180 sts.
Rnd 20: Sl st in corner ch sp, ch 2 [does not count as a st], *(cluster [see Special Stitches], ch 3, cluster) in corner ch sp, [ch 1, sk next st, cluster in next ch sp] to corner ch sp, ch 1, sk next st, repeat from * around, join to first cluster with sl st – 184 clusters. Fasten off.

Rnds 21-22: Repeat Edging Rnds 4-5 – 388 sts. Fasten off.

Rnd 23: With Red, sl st in BLO (see my tutorial post about this) of 3rd sc of first corner, ch 1, still working in same st, *sc in BLO of 3rd st of corner, tr in corner ch sp of Edging Rnd 20 between two sts from Rnd 21, sc in BLO again in 3rd st of corner from Rnd 22, sc in BLO of next 38 sts, 2 tr in top of 19th cluster from Rnd 20, sk next 2 sts from Rnd 22, sc in BLO of next 16 sts, 2 tr in top of 28th cluster from Rnd 20, sk next 2 sts from Rnd 22 sc in BLO of each st to next corner, sc in BLO of first 2 corner sts, repeat from * around, joining to first st with sl st – 396 sts. Fasten off. 

Rnds 24-25: Repeat Rnds 7-8 – 212 sts. Fasten off.

Rnds 26-28: Repeat Rnds 18-20 – 224 clusters. Fasten off.

Rnd 29: Repeat Rnd 4 – 228 sts. Fasten off.

Rnd 30: Beginning on left edge of first corner ch sp, join Blue Mist with sc2tog, placing first leg in corner ch sp, and 2nd leg in next ch sp, (hdc, dc) in same ch sp, *[(dc, hdc, sc2tog, hdc, dc) over next 2 ch sps, placing one leg of sc2tog in each ch sp] across until you have worked into corner ch sp, ch 1**, continuing to work 3 more sts into corner ch sp, repeat from * around, ending last rep at **, (dc, hdc) in same corner ch sp, join to first st with sl st – 580 sts. Fasten off.

Finishing
Block if needed. Weave in all ends. Enjoy! 

Since I'm human, I sometimes make mistakes. I have checked my work carefully, but sometimes errors slip through. If you think you've found a mistake, please contact me and let me know. I'll take a look, and fix any mistakes ASAP! Thanks!

FREE crochet pattern. Colorful baby blanket in seed or moss stitch. By April Garwood of Banana Moon Studio.

I look so forward to seeing pictures of finished blankets on Ravelry! You are also welcome to share them on my Facebook page, and as always, if you'd like to have a picture of your finished project from this, or any of my patterns, featured in my newsletter, please subscribe to my newsletter, and then reply to it with your picture!

Is there a special baby in your life, or coming soon, that you'll be making sweet crochet baby blanket for? What colors will you use?

I'd love to hear from you!
April


FREE crochet pattern. Colorful baby blanket in seed or moss stitch. By April Garwood of Banana Moon Studio.

6.15.2017

Willow Creek Wrap


Wrap your shoulders in lacy cotton as you stroll in the springtime. Willow Creek Wrap will add a light and lovely layer. It is crocheted in Cascade Yarns Ultra Pima Fine in color #3717 Sand. It requires 7 skeins. This yarn is my favorite cotton yarn out there! It is really soft and pleasant to work with and wear. You'll also need a size G/6/4 mm crochet hook, 2 large buttons, sewing thread to match your yarn, a sewing needle, and a yarn needle. It is available on Ravelry, Etsy, and Craftsy for just $3.




I designed this stunning wrap with my friend Shauna, of Slappy Feet Design, in mind. It seemed like something she would really love, and it is lacy and light for warmer weather, though, let's be real, if you live in the south, like me, you aren't wearing any more layers than necessary in the summer. Start now, and it will be perfect for fall! I chose the color because Shauna likes neutrals. I perused the latest Pantone Color Report to find the trendiest neutral, and here you have it, Sand, though they call it "Hazelnut". Same thing. More or less.

This post contains affiliate ads. It helps my bottom line when you click on one and load up your cart, so thanks in advance!




This wrap uses vertical stripes of solid stitching alternating with stripes of a lace pattern I came up with myself. I named it Torch Stitch. I decided to make the stripes diagonal, and make a solid border around all 4 sides. I attached 2 large buttons so that it can be buttoned on one shoulder, but you can play around with how it's styled, as I did in the pictures below.



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I just know you're going to love it! Go grab the pattern right now! Then, come SIGN UP for my newsletter or VISIT me on Facebook so you can keep up with my design journey and share your progress! See you soon!

April


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6.08.2017

Book Review: Every Which Way Crochet Borders



Today I have a book review for you. This is Every Which Way Crochet Borders by Edie Eckman. I was sent this book by Storey Publishing (thank you!), in hopes that I would write a favorable review, but I never say what I don't mean, so no worries there.


This book came at the perfect time for me! I was almost finished with a lace table runner, and I needed an idea for the edging. I went with #89 (each of the edging patterns is numbered, rather than named). I tweaked it though, to make it fit my piece.


The photographs in the book are really nice and colorful. The instructions are nice and clear, and include symbol charts for every edging pattern.

At the beginning of the book, Edie discusses choices about color and yarn type, and various ways to customize your edging. In another section, she teachers how to apply the edging to your piece.

The book contains a glossary of abbreviations with detailed instructions for how to do each of those stitches. It boasts a full-color photographic index at the back, that shows each edging in miniature and where to find it. Also included, is this great table in the back that shows which edgings have certain attributes like reversible, wide, medium, narrow, undulating, straight, motifs, lacy, layered, fringy, and textured. You'll also find instructions about how to read written crochet patterns and how to read symbol charts.

I really like this book. It is a great resource! If you are making anything to which you want to add an edging, you'll benefit from having this book in your library!

If you want to hang out more, please VISIT me on Facebook, SUBSCRIBE to my newsletter, or CHECK out my Pinterest boards! See you soon!

Happy stitching!
April


6.06.2017

Granny's Girl Tunic


Today's post is all about this adorable little tunic from Crochet! Spring 2017. This is Granny's Girl Tunic. This pattern is written in sizes 3 mo, 6 mo, 12 mo, and 18 mo. It uses Cascade Yarns Anchor Bay, which is a dk weight cotton/superwash merino blend. It uses 1 to 2 skeins of the blue, and 1 skein each of the other 3 colors.


This sweet tunic begins with 2 granny squares that form the bottom of the dress. The bodice is worked from the top of the granny squares up.

When I first submitted this design to the editor, I submitted this swatch:


This shows my idea for the granny square motifs, the bodice, and the edging. I included a drawing and written explanation of what I had in mind.

The editor responded that she liked it, but would prefer a motif that wasn't just the basic granny. She asked me to submit a different idea for the motif. So, I came up with this:


This one was a go! I kept the beginnings of the traditional granny in the middle because I really liked how the center of the motif looked. After that, it was time to request the yarn from Cascade Yarns, who generously supplied skeins of Anchor Bay for this project. Unfortunately, the pink colorway of Anchor Bay wasn't available at that point, so we could choose from yellow or purple to replace the pink. I chose yellow. So, here is the swatch with yellow, next to the swatch with pink:


I decided to make a section of single crochet on both sides of the tunic between the motifs. These are then taken up by pleats before beginning the bodice. Here are some close-up shots of the pleats:


In this photo, you can see how I've folded the pleat. This is looking straight down at the top of the pleat.


I used these great clips to hold the pleats while I was working. You stitch through all 3 thicknesses when you come to the pleats, and in that way you begin working the bodice right from the top of the motifs.

If you'd like to hang out more, please VISIT my Facebook page, FOLLOW me on Instagram, or SUBSCRIBE to my newsletter!

Happy stitching!
April

3.09.2017

NatCroMo 2017 - Pond Creek Pillow - Free Crochet Pattern


Happy National Crochet Month friends! 

Today I am here to celebrate the art of crochet and to make my contribution to the Crochetville 2017 NatCroMo blog tour. 

This post contains affiliate links. It helps my bottom line when you click on one and load up your cart, so thanks in advance!

There are posts every day this month from designers, yarn stores, and yarn and other crochet-related companies. There are daily giveaways as well! You can keep up with the daily posts on Crochetville's blog and Facebook Page


Glamping

So, the theme of this year's blog tour is "Glamping" (in case you aren't in the know, that's glamorous camping). Well, when I camp, it's not glamorous. In fact, I went camping this past weekend, and I can tell you, there wasn't a thing about me, or our campsite that was glamorous. Since I am not experienced in this field, I had to consult Pinterest

Thankfully, it won't take you more than a few minutes after typing "glamping" in the search box on Pinterest to discover the secret to successful glamping... 

Throw Pillows

You need perfectly chosen throw pillows to match your stunning campsite decor. You'll need them on the luxe bed in your massive tent, and on the cute upholstered chairs around your campfire. Never mind the fact that they'll smell like campfire and be full of burrs after day one. Suck it up, buttercup. If you want to be a glamper, you need throw pillows, and since we are crocheters, you'll need crochet throw pillows.

Pond Creek Pillow, Free Crochet Pattern by April Garwood of Banana Moon Studio

Good news is, I've got you covered with a new, original crochet throw pillow pattern in honor of the occasion. Without further ado, allow me to introduce:

Pond Creek Pillow

Difficutly Level: Easy+

Finished Size: 14 inches or 35.5 cm diameter.

Yarn: Valley Yarns Valley Superwash dk (100% Extrafine Merino; 137 yds/125.5 m/1.75 oz/50 g; weight category 3/light): #01 Natural, 1 ball; #10 Soft Yellow, 3 balls; #23 Boy Blue, 1 ball.

Hook: G/6/4 mm, or size needed to obtain gauge.


Gauge: First 5 rounds of pillow front = about 4 ½” or 11.5 cm across.

Special Stitches
Picot (picot): Ch 3, insert hook under front loop, and left vertical bar of last st, yo, pull through all loops.
Quadruple Treble (quadtr): Yo 5 times, insert hook in designated st and pull up a loop, *yo, pull through 2 loops, repeat from * until only 1 loop remains on hook.
Extended Double Crochet (edc): Yo, insert hook in designated st and pull up a loop, yo, pull through 1 loop, (yo, pull through 2 loops)2 times.
Triple Treble (trtr): Yo 4 times, insert hook in designated st and pull up a loop, *yo, pull through 2 loops, repeat from * until only 1 loop remains on hook.

Notes:
Do not turn between rounds.

When working qdtr or trtr stitches, wrap yarnovers tightly, and push yarnovers towards end of hook as you work them off, so that the last loop doesn’t wind up being overly loose.

The front and back of the pillow cover are crocheted separately. Then they are stitched together around the edges while placing a pillow form inside.

Pillow Front
With Natural, make an adjustable ring.
Rnd 1: Ch 2, 12 dc in ring, join to first st with sl st – 12 sts.
Rnd 2: Ch 2 (counts as hdc), Fpdc in first st (see my tutorial), (hdc, Fpdc) in each rem st, join to first st with sl st – 24 sts. 
Rnd 3: Ch 2, (hdc, Fpdc in 2nd st), *hdc in next st, (hdc, Fpdc) in next st, repeat from * around, join to first st with sl st – 36 sts. Fasten off. 
Rnd 4: With Soft Yellow (join with sc, hdc, sc) in first post st, *ch 1, skip 2 sts**, (sc, hdc, sc) in next post st, repeat from * around, ending last rep at **, join to first st with sl st – 36 sts. 
Rnd 5: Sl st in next 2 sts, (sl st, ch 5, tr, ch 2, dc) in next ch sp, skip 3 sts, *(dc, ch 2, tr, ch 2, dc) in next ch sp, skip 3 sts, repeat from * around, join to 3rd ch of ch-5 with sl st – 36 sts.
Rnd 6: Ch 1, *3 sc in next ch sp, (sc, picot) in next st (see Special Stitches), 3 sc in next ch sp, skip 2 sts, repeat from * around, join to first st with sl st – 84 sts. Fasten off. 
Rnd 7: Working in back loops only, with Boy Blue, join with sc in second st, sc in next st, *ch 1, skip next st and picot, place ch behind picot, sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog over next 2 sts**, sc in next 2 sts, repeat from * around, ending last rep at **, join to first st with sl st – 60 sts. Fasten off. 




Rnd 8: With Soft Yellow, join with edc to 2nd st, *dc in next st, 3 dc in ch sp, dc in next st, edc in next st, skip next st**, edc in next st, repeat from * around, ending last rep at **, join to first st with sl st – 84 sts. Fasten off. Note that the front loops of each edc will be used in Rnd 12 to stitch into. Make a mental note or mark them with waste yarn or locking st markers for easy ID later on.
Rnd 9: With Boy Blue, and working in back loops only, join with sc in first st, sc in next 6 sts, ch 2, *sc in next 7 sts, ch 2, repeat from * around, join to first st with sl st – 84 sts. 
Rnd 10: Sl st in next 2 sts, (sl st, ch 2, 3 dc) in next st (ch 2 does not count as a st), ch 1, *skip 3 sts, (2 dc, tr, ch 1, tr, 2 dc) in next ch sp, ch 1, skip 3 sts**, 3 dc in next st, ch 1, repeat from * around, ending last rep at **, join to first st with sl st – 108 sts. Fasten off. 
Rnd 11: With Natural (Join with sc, 2 sc) in 2nd st, *ch 4, skip 4 sts, sc in next ch sp, ch 4, skip 4 sts**, 3 sc in next st, repeat from * around, ending last rep at **, join to first st with sl st – 48 sts. Fasten off. 
Rnd 12: With yellow (join with sc, sc, 2 hdc, dc) in first ch sp, *quadtr in front loop of next 2 edc from Rnd 8, skip next st, (dc, 2 hdc, 2 sc) in next ch sp, ch 2, skip 3 sts**, (2 sc, 2 hdc, dc) in next ch sp, repeat from * around, ending last rep at **, join to first st with sl st – 144 sts. Fasten off.
Rnd 13: With Boy Blue, (Join with sc, sc, picot, sc) in first ch sp, *working in back loops only, sc in each st to next ch sp**, (2 sc, picot, sc) in next ch sp, repeat from * around, ending last rep at **, join to first st with sl st – 180 sts. Fasten off.
Rnd 14: With Natural, join with sc in first picot, *ch 3, skip 6 sts, 4 tr in next st, ch 1, 4 tr in next st, ch 3, skip 7 sts**, sc in next picot, repeat from * around, ending last rep at **, join to first st with sl st – 108 sts. Fasten off.
Rnd 15: Join Soft Yellow with sc in first st, *2 sc in next ch sp, trtr in front loop of next quadtr from Rnd 12, skip next st, sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next ch sp, sc in next 3 sts, trtr in front loop of next quadtr from Rnd 12, skip next st, 2 sc in next ch sp**, sc in next st, repeat from * around, ending last rep at **, join to first st with sl st – 180 sts.
Rnd 16: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), working in back loops only, edc in first 2 sts, *dc in next 5 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next 5 sts**, edc in next 3 sts, repeat from * around, ending last rep at **, edc in last st, 
join to first st with sl st.
Rnds 17-18: Ch 2, does not count as a st, dc in each st around, join to first st with sl st – 180 sts.

Weave in ends.

Crochet scarf patterns by April Garwood of Banana Moon Studio


Pillow Back
Note: You can change colors as you like, or work the whole back piece in one solid color. When you want to change colors, you begin with the join in the rnd prior to the change. Insert hook into the first st, yo with the new color, pull through st and loop on hook with this new color, continue the next rnd in this new color. I began in Natural, changed to Boy Blue in Rnd 7, and changed to Soft Yellow in Rnd 9.
With Natural, make an adjustable ring.
Rnds 1-3: Repeat Rnds 1-3 of Pillow Front.
Rnds 4-8: Ch 2, *hdc in each st to next post st, (hdc, Fpdc) in next post st, repeat from * around, join to first st with sl st.
Rnd 9: Ch 2, *hdc in each st to next post st, Fpdc in next post st, repeat from * around, join to first st with sl st.
Rnd 10: Repeat Rnd 4.
Rnds 11-22: Alternate repeating Rnds 9 and 4 – 180 sts.

Weave in ends.

Finishing
Place Pillow Front and Pillow Back with WS together. When you have finished joining the pieces a little past halfway around, insert the pillow form and continue stitching. With front piece facing you, and working through both thicknesses, join yarn with sc in any set of sts, *sc in next 14 sets of sts, 2 sc in next set of sts, repeat from * around, join to first st with sl st – 192 sts. Weave in ends.

Tada! All finished! 

Pond Creek Pillow, Free Crochet Pattern by April Garwood of Banana Moon Studio

How do you celebrate National Crochet Month? Better yet, why do you celebrate National Crochet Month?

Have you seen my posts for the National Crochet Month blog tour in year's past? I've shared a new, original free pattern each year that I've participated! See them here:

NatCroMo 2013 - includes the Peacock Afghan Square free pattern!

NatCroMo 2014 - includes the Gardens Galore Garland free pattern!

NatCroMo 2016 - includes the Berry Scarf free pattern!

Please keep in touch! You can subscribe to my monthly newsletter here: Subscribe. You can visit me on Facebook or Twitter, or share pics of your finished pillows on Ravelry!

Happy glamping and stitching friends! I hope you enjoy the rest of the tour!
April

thumbless baby mitten crochet pattern by April Garwood of Banana Moon Studio

3.02.2017

Vinita Mitts Jr


If you have visited my blog before, you may have seen my original Vinita Mitts pattern. I mentioned there how much Baby wanted a pair of her own. Well, like any mom, I spoil my youngest, so I had to make her a pair.



You, dear readers, get to benefit from her request. This pattern makes the same fingerless mitts in smaller sizes for your littles. This pattern includes a carry-along thread made by Kreinik that is sparkly, and of course, big bows made with ribbon. Many thanks to Kreink for providing the thread. This pattern could easily work without the sparkle or the bows if you have a recipient that would not care for those.


Vinita Mitts Jr
Design by April Garwood

Available Sizes: 4 ½ [5 ¼, 5 ¾]” or 10 [13.5, 14.5] cm arm circumference a few inches above the wrist.

Yarn:
- Valley Yarns Valley Superwash dk (100% Extrafine Merino; 137 yds/125.5 m/1.75 oz/50 g; weight category 3/light): #16 Ice Blue, 1 ball.
- Kreinik Ombre Carry-Along Yarn (330 yd/302 m; weight category 1/fine): #1300 Misty Violet, 1 cone.

Crochet hook: H/8/5.00 mm, or size needed to obtain gauge.

Notions: About 42” or 106.5 cm of 1” or 2.5 cm wide gross-grain ribbon in complementary color, yarn needle.

Gauge: 7 patt repeats and 9 rnds = about 4” or 10 cm

Notes:
1. Ch 3 at beg of rnd counts as dc.
2. Ch 6 at beg of rnd 11 does not count as a st. This large ch sp forms the thumbhole.

Mitt (Make 2)
Ch 16 [18, 20], join to first ch with sl st.
Rnd 1: Ch 3, dc in first ch, *skip next ch, 2 dc in next ch, repeat from * around, skip last ch, join to tch with sl st – 16 [18, 20] sts.
Rnd 2: (Sl st, ch 3, dc) in sp between tch and first st, *skip next st, 2 dc in between next 2 sts, repeat from * around, skip last st, join to tch with sl st.
Rnds 3-7: Repeat Rnd 2.
Rnd 8:  (Sl st, ch 3, 2 dc) in sp between tch and first st, *skip next st, 2 dc in between next 2 sts, repeat from * around, skip last st, join to tch with sl st – 17 [19, 21] sts.
Rnd 9: (Sl st, ch 3, dc) in sp between tch and first st, 2 dc in sp between 1st and 2nd sts, *skip next st, 2 dc in between next 2 sts, repeat from * around, skip last st, join to tch with sl st – 18 [20, 22] sts.
Rnd 10: Repeat Rnd 2.
Rnd 11: Ch 6, skip first 2 sts, dc in between next 2 sts, *skip next st, 2 dc in between next 2 sts, repeat form * around, skip last st, join to 3rd ch of tch with sl st – 16 [18, 20] sts.
Rnd 12: (Sl st, ch 1, sc) in first ch sp, *2 dc in between next 2 sts, skip next st, repeat from * around, join to first st with sl st – 17 [19, 21] sts.
Rnd 13: Sl st in next st, (Sl st, ch 3, dc) in sp between this and next st, *skip next st, 2 dc in between next 2 sts, repeat from * around, skip last st, join to top of ch-3 with sl st.
Rnd 14: Repeat Rnd 2. Fasten off.

Finishing:
Weave in ends.



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Happy stitching!
April